On 3 July 2024, five East African countries (Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania and Uganda) notified the World Trade Organization (WTO) that the Draft East African Standard for Hair Oils - Specifications (DEAS 841:2023) was adopted by the East African Community Council of Ministers on 14 June 2024. This second edition of the standard will replace the 2017 edition, and introduces technical revisions aimed at ensuring higher quality and safety standards for hair oil products across the region.

Comprehensive Scope and Requirements

The standard specifies requirements and sampling methods for hair oils, which include products made from vegetable oils, mineral oils or a combination of both. However, hair oils with therapeutic claims are excluded from this standard. All oils used must comply with the relevant raw material standards and any additional ingredients must comply with all parts of EAS 377, which lists substances that are banned or restricted in cosmetic products. The final product should be a clear liquid, free of sediment and suspended matter, and not irritating to the scalp. Any added dyes, pigments or fragrances must be of cosmetic grade.

Safety Standards

To ensure consumer safety, the draft standard sets strict limits on heavy metal content. Hair oils must not contain more than 10 mg/kg of lead, 2 mg/kg of arsenic or 2 mg/kg of mercury. Together, the total heavy metal content must not exceed 10 mg/kg. Microbiological requirements specify limits on total viable counts and the absence of harmful micro-organisms such as Staphylococcus Aureus, Pseudomonas Aeruginosa and Candida Albicans

Packaging and Labelling

DEAS 841:2023 outlines packaging standards to ensure product integrity and prevent contamination. Labels must comply with the general requirements of EAS 346 (Labelling of Cosmetics – General Requirements) and each package must be clearly labelled with the product name "Hair Oil".

Harmonising Regional Trade

The introduction of DEAS 841:2023 is part of the East African Community's ongoing efforts to harmonise product standards across member states to facilitate trade and ensure that consumers receive high quality products. The draft was circulated to stakeholders for review and feedback to ensure a comprehensive and inclusive standard.

The full text of DEAS 841:2023 is available here.

On 3 July 2024, five East African countries (Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania and Uganda) notified the World Trade Organization (WTO) that the Draft East African Standard for Henna Powder (DEAS 337:2023) was adopted by the East African Community Council of Ministers on 14 June 2024. This standard, which will replace the 2013 edition, introduces comprehensive specifications to ensure that henna products meet high standards of purity and performance.

Improved Quality Specifications

The updated standard outlines stringent requirements for henna powder, including general and specific quality criteria. Specifically, the new specifications require henna powder to be in the form of a fine, dried powder obtained from fresh leaves of the henna plant and free from extraneous contaminants such as stems, small fruits and other non-plant materials. It also sets precise limits for moisture content, crude fibre, mineral content and the presence of extraneous sand.

Safety and Purity Standards

A key feature of DEAS 337:2023 is its focus on safety and purity. The Standard stipulates that henna powder must not exceed maximum limits for heavy metal contaminants (lead, arsenic and mercury) ensuring the safety of the product for consumer use. In addition, the standard includes microbiological limits to control potential microbial contamination, specifying acceptable levels for several microorganisms including Pseudomonas Aeruginosa and Staphylococcus Aureus.

Updated Labelling Requirements

The Standard also emphasises the importance of accurate labelling. Each package of henna powder must be clearly labelled with the product name and instructions for use, specifically stating that only water should be used as a solvent. The packaging must also be secure and prevent contamination.

Detailed Test Procedures

The standard was developed by the East African Community Technical Committee EASC/TC 071, which oversees cosmetics and related products. The draft has been circulated to stakeholders for feedback to ensure that the final version reflects the needs and concerns of all parties involved.

As part of the implementation of the standard, detailed methods for sampling, testing and analysis are provided, including procedures for determining moisture content, cold water extract levels, and the presence of extraneous dyes by thin layer chromatography.

Moving Towards Harmonization

The introduction of DEAS 337:2023 is a significant step towards harmonising product quality across East African countries, reducing trade barriers and promoting consumer safety. Stakeholders and industry players are encouraged to review the draft and provide feedback to help finalise the standard.

The full text of DEAS 337:2023 can be found here.